Winterize your car
Everything to handle before the first freeze: tires, battery, fluids, and the winter kit for your trunk. Built so nothing slips through before the cold hits.

[ ] Switch to winter tires before the first frost
    Rubber compounds change grip below +7°C (45°F) — summer tires go hard and lose traction well before snow ever falls.
[ ] Book a tire-fitting appointment early
    After the first snowfall, shops get booked out for days. Schedule a couple of weeks ahead of the cold snap, not once everyone else has the same idea.
[ ] Check tire tread depth
    Winter tires need at least 4 mm of tread — more than the 1.6 mm summer minimum. Below that, grip on snow and ice drops off even if the tire isn't legally bald yet.
[ ] Adjust tire pressure for cold weather
    Pressure drops roughly 0.1 bar (1–2 psi) for every 10°C the temperature falls. Check every couple of weeks — you can't eyeball an underinflated tire.
[ ] Check the battery's charge and terminals
    The number one reason cars won't start in winter. Check the voltage and clean any corrosion off the terminals; if it's over 4 years old, get a load capacity test at a shop — it can read as charged and still fail in real cold.
[ ] Check antifreeze level and concentration
    Concentration determines the freeze point — have it tested (a hydrometer or a shop check) to confirm it's rated for your region's lows, not just topped up with plain water.
[ ] Fill winter washer fluid and carry a spare bottle
    Do this the moment it turns cold: summer fluid freezes in the reservoir and can crack the tank or the lines. Keep a spare bottle in the trunk too.
[ ] Fit winter wipers or fresh blades
    Stiff summer blades smear ice around instead of clearing it. Winter blades use an enclosed frame that won't clog with snow.
[ ] Apply silicone lubricant to the door seals
    A silicone spray or grease keeps the rubber from freezing to the body — skip it and a frosty night can seal your doors shut.
[ ] Carry a lock de-icer spray
    Keep it in your jacket pocket or at home, not in the glovebox — if the car itself is frozen shut, you can't reach the glovebox anyway.
[ ] Change the oil if it's due soon
    If a change is coming up anyway, do it before the cold hits: oil thickens in low temperatures, and worn oil makes that first freezing-cold start much harder on the engine.
[ ] Check the brakes
    Pads, discs, and the handbrake — stopping distance already grows on slick roads, and worn brakes stretch it even further.
[ ] Check headlights: bulbs and lens condition
    Winter days are short, and yellowed, cloudy headlight lenses can cut light output by half. Check the bulbs and polish the lenses if they've gone hazy.
[ ] Get a proper-sized scraper and snow brush
    The tiny scraper from the glovebox won't cut through hard ice. Get a brush with a long handle — you'll need it to reach the roof.
[ ] Carry a folding shovel
    A compact shovel in the trunk is your best shot at digging yourself out if you get stuck in a snowdrift on an unplowed road.
[ ] Check the tow rope and jumper cables
    Batteries die more often in winter — the odds you'll actually need these two items peak this time of year.
[ ] Pack warm gloves and a blanket for the cabin
    You'll need them for digging out the car or waiting for a tow in freezing weather — thin everyday gloves won't cut it.
[ ] Keep the fuel tank at least half full in winter
    This limits condensation in the tank (which can freeze in the fuel line) and gives you a buffer if you're stuck or stranded in a jam in the cold.
[ ] Fit rubber floor mats with raised edges
    Snow and road salt off your boots will wreck fabric mats and the carpet underneath over a winter. Raised-edge rubber mats contain all the mess.

Checklist from Unload: https://unloads.me/c/car-winter-prep