New kitten checklist

Work through the list in order. Hide the notes when you know what to do.

1. Install screens on all windows

   Falling from windows is the #1 cause of death for indoor cats. A regular mosquito screen won't hold a cat's weight — get a reinforced "cat screen".

2. Remove cords, threads, rubber bands and small items

   String and rubber bands are a favorite toy — and a common cause of emergency surgery if swallowed, since thread can damage the intestine. Tuck cables away too.

3. Check houseplants against a toxic-plant list

   Lilies are lethal to cats even in tiny amounts — pollen on the fur gets licked off during grooming. Remove them from the home entirely, not just out of reach.

4. Litter box with the same litter used before

   Ask the breeder or shelter what litter they used — a sudden switch is a common reason kittens start going outside the box. Change the type gradually if you must.

5. Get into the habit of scooping the box daily

   Cats are picky about a clean box — a dirty one is a common reason for accidents outside it. Do a full litter change every 1–2 weeks depending on the type.

6. Food and water bowls away from the litter box

   Cats instinctively won't eat near their toilet — bowls right next to the box can make a kitten refuse food or start using a different spot.

7. Feed the familiar food, switch gradually

   Feed the same food as the breeder or shelter for the first week — the move is stressful enough for a kitten's stomach. Mix in a new food gradually.

8. Two scratching posts — right away

   One vertical (to stretch fully) and one horizontal. Set them up before the kitten discovers the couch and wallpaper — retraining is much harder than starting right.

9. Set up some vertical space

   A shelf, cat tree or a scratching post with a top perch. Cats feel safer above floor level — especially useful if there are kids or other pets in the house.

10. A hard-sided carrier

    Needed for the ride home and vet visits. Hard plastic holds its shape better if the kitten panics, and it's easier to clean after a stressful trip.

11. A cat house or bed

    It'll probably end up choosing a cardboard box anyway — but give it a proper hideout from day one, somewhere to retreat from new sounds and people.

12. A wand teaser toy

    The best toy for the money: it mimics hunting, burns off excess energy, and teaches the kitten not to bite hands, because the prey is on the stick, not your fingers.

13. Vet visit in the first days

    Checkup, vaccination plan, parasite treatment and a chat about spay/neuter timing — all in one visit, on your vet's advice.

14. Microchip and ID tag

    Worth it even for an indoor cat — kittens are experts at slipping out the door. The chip goes in at the same vet visit; put a tag on the harness for balcony time.

15. A quiet room for the first few days

    Don't scoop it up and parade it around the whole apartment right away. Give it one calm room with a litter box, food and a hiding spot — it'll come out on its own when ready.

16. Introduce other pets gradually

    The first days should happen through a closed door, by scent and sound. A face-to-face meeting comes only once both animals stay calm around each other's presence.

17. Explain the ground rules to kids

    No grabbing a sleeping kitten and no touching it while it's in the litter box — both provoke scratching and biting even from the friendliest kitten.

18. First nights: meowing is normal

    It's the kitten's first time alone, away from mom and littermates. Within a few nights, once it trusts the new home, the crying settles down on its own.

19. A brush suited to the coat type

    Long-haired cats need a slicker brush for tangles; short-haired ones do fine with a silicone grooming glove. Start young so it becomes routine, not a fight.

20. Nail clippers

    A scratching post doesn't fully replace nail trims. Clip every 2–3 weeks, easing the kitten in with short sessions and a treat afterward.

21. Save a 24-hour vet clinic number

    Find one now, not in a panic at 2 am. Kittens dehydrate and weaken fast — with poisoning or injury, hours can matter.